I thought of doing something nobody would expect of me: blogging – once in a while – about food under the label “culinary digressions”.
I care dearly about food, and I care dearly about cooking it. To me, it is a matter of ego, artistry, and old-fashioned hostess instinct. This “care” of mine is, like all the other “cares” I have, a very complicated one; it involves (precious) time, (considerable) social, emotional and financial resources, aesthetics, green policies, tears, sweat, smelly steam invading the flat, innumerable (yet never sufficient) kitchen kits, a tough cook apron, and a lot of (not easily breakable) confidence.

I try to cook as intuitively as possible. A friend of mine once asked how come I never read the recipe once I start cooking. Do I really have to learn the recipe by heart? No, not at all, I answered. It is just that I never start cooking without making sure I understood the recipe. While reading it, I imagine the outcome, I instill its “laws”, I make sense out of it all. The shortest way to a catastrophic culinary outcome is reading one row at a time without trying to understand your present cooking manoeuvres as being part of a whole procedure that is supposed to have a certain (recognizable and tasty) result.
Whenever you think that nothing looks more dissonant and less intuitive than the recipe in front of you, whenever you fear all those ingredients crowded on your table are going to fade, melt or turn blue, and whenever you realize that someone trained to become a dadaist poet printed some chaotic words and numbers in your cookbook, it’s time to step back: bring all those “primordial” elements of reality together in your mind and thus provoke the vision of the upcoming dish! Once the recipe makes sense in your mind and you can actually connect the words on the page with the ingredients on the table, close the cookbook and follow your instincts. They can’t fail you.
Yesterday evening I cooked an…ostrich meat-based dish, for the first time in my life. It was a strange experience. The color of the meat makes you think it’s veal, but because its being very rich in iron, the color is really very intensely red. I’ve decided to make it the thai-way and I’ve learned just in time that, unlike veal, the ostrich meat does not have to be marinated for too long because it is a lot leaner. Rice vinegar, soy sauce (not the salty one!), red onion, honey, chili cayenne, fresh ginger, and some sherry made a perfect marinate for the meat. I kept everything in the fridge for about 1 hour (I usually marinate the veal for 3 to 4 hours), while the brown rice was cooked (brown rice does smell like sweaty socks while being cooked, but tastes and feels a lot better than the white one! Don’t pass it by when you see it in your grocery store!). Once marinated, I cooked everything in the wok for no more than 5 minutes (ostrich meat becomes hard if overcooked). Vegetables (broccoli, carrots and spinach) steamed for about 5 minutes accompanied the meat and made a complete, extremely healthy dish. The meat tastes a bit like pork and a bit like veal, but I won’t lie to you, it does have a peculiar, faint aftertaste that made me think, for a moment, of the smell in the dissection room of the Medical School I once used to go to.
As a starter, I fixed one of my absolute favorite dishes (although, in my opinion, French cuisine is nothing to die for): chèvre chaud. Make sure the goat cheese is not too hard and not too soft, not to salty and not too sweet, and, also, I dare say, the organic rye bread is a must because it tastes better than other sorts of bread when grilled. I never skip the Dijon mustard and roughly sliced avocado when I cook this salad, but I never use bacon or eggs or any other kind of “heavy” ingredients. This is definitely not the kind of dish you want to overdue. It’s a discrete, slightly elegant appetizer that goes extremely well with a French floral white wine. The only distinctive taste must come from the grilled goat cheese and from one green onion finely chopped. Because I think lettuce leaves have no taste and no personality, I try to use spinach as often as possible (leaves must be well-dried after being washed. The excess of water makes everything mushy and the salad would look and taste lifeless.)
All in all, the dinner was great. The cooking time has been understimated though (fixing a salad always takes more time than expected) and we set the table sometime around 10 p.m. which I think it’s intolerable. Staying up for 4 more hours afterwards with a bottle of Chianti at hand was a graceful idea though.